Muskoka Lawn Care Services & FAQ
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Sod vs. Seeding
Sod is a term for grass that has been grown for the purpose of being transplanted to a new location. The system of grass, roots and soil are rolled up during transport and then laid down in strips to continue growth and establish a luscious lawn in next to no time. Laying sod is the quickest way to achieve a mature lawn although its costs are higher than traditional seeding. The advantages of laying sod are numerous:
- Less competition of weeds during the establishment period. Sod is already mature enough to protect against the invasion of weeds during the critical growth period. Young seedlings may suffocate as weeds take over the territory and grow faster and stronger than your young lawn whereas sod is already beyond that sensitive point at the time of its introduction.
- Protection against erosion by wind and rain. Sod can insulate your soil against the weathering it may otherwise be subject to. Wind, rain and even sun can strip your land of its valuable soil. Laying sod will quickly resolve this problem by growing roots down into the ground and “holding on” to the soil.
- Instant lawn. Sod can immediately transform the look of your property. Whether you have just built a new home or are looking to update the quality of your lawn, sod offers a quick fix. Sod may also be used for partial lawn treatment to fix a damaged area.
- Thicker, heartier lawn. Since sod undergoes careful inspection and
The disadvantages of using sod are:
- The cost. Sod is more expensive than both traditional seeding methods as well as hydroseeding. Sod farmers spend about ten to twenty months carefully grooming the young lawn. The sod is subject to frequent watering, fertilization, and mowing with the clippings being vacuumed to prepare for eventual harvest.
- Time and resource consuming during the first year after installation. The first few months after transplant of sod requires daily watering (twice a day) to ensure that the roots survive and thrive in the new environment. Since new sod is susceptible to damage from insect larvae taking home in the roots, preventative insecticidal measures are recommended.
- Not practical for hard to reach areas. Some yards have small areas that sod must be cut to fit to. Although this isn’t the end of the world it may make installation a little tricky.
There are four general methods of installation of sod. Each has their pros and cons and many homeowners and landscapers have their chosen method that they prefer to stick to.
The “shave-off technique” (a.k.a. “sod-cutter technique”) is useful for those who have general landscaping tools such as shovels or hoes. A sod-cutter is a machine that will essentially shave off the top of your lawn so that new sod may be planted, although other tools may be used for this process as well. The discarded lawn is taken away and the remaining soil is rotovated (a.k.a. roto-tilled). Once the soil has been loosened a quality top soil may be applied if the original soil is not rich enough in nutrients. The soil is straightened out and the new sod may be applied on top.
The downside to this method is that snips of roots and other weeds may remain in the original soil and may eventually make its way back up to the surface and ruin the look of the sod.
The tilling technique is used by first using a roto-tiller to churn the soil before applying the sod. Two methods exist to property till the original lawn.
The first method is named the “till-it-all technique” and it consists of tilling both the original soil as well as the existing grass. This will create a nice platform for which to install the new sod.
The second method is named the “tiller-to-grass technique” which consists of tilling only the surface grass from the lawn and then carrying away the discards. This will leave the original soil untouched and may be tilled a second time to create a loose bed upon which to install the sod.
The herbicidal technique starts by applying herbicide to the original and then waiting 1-2 weeks while all the grass dies. The landscaper then returns to the lawn and rakes up all the dead grass and possibly applies a layer of top soil if the original soil is lacking in nutrients. Sod may be installed upon this new bed of soil.
Installation upon an existing lawn seems to be the simplest application method for new sod. The landscaper simply applies the new sod on top of the old lawn. The idea is that the old grass will eventually die (loss of sunlight) and as it decomposes it creates a layer of fertilizer for the new sod. Some homeowners worry that the old grass and weeds may grow up through the new sod and ruin the lawn however, research shows that this no more likely to occur using this method than with other methods.
The advantage of traditional seeding is the lower cost.
The disadvantages of seeding are
- The loss of seed due to wind, drought or even birds and other animals.
- Soil erosion may be a problem even after planting if the land is extremely dry or near water.
- Lengthy period of establishment. Seedlings take a long time to grow upon being planted. Sod, on the other hand, after 1 month of growth resembles a seeded lawn after 1-2 years of growth.
Care after installation requires that the new lawn (whether it is seeded or sodded) be fertilized with a quality fertilizer to help boost its success. A fertilizer with a one-to-one-to-one ration of potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen will aid proper root development right after planting/transplanting (careful not to touch the roots directly with fertilizer to avoid burning). Although regular watering of sod is a must, over watering may prevent the roots from growing down into the soil in search for water and nutrients. A happy medium is best.
When laying sod on a hill or in a ditch you may consider using sod staples. This will provide proper support so as to avoid water from washing sod away. Another practice is to place sod perpendicular to the slope of the hill. This adds extra strength.
For the best results over time it is crucial to test the pH of the soil and avoid high acidity. Grasses do well within the pH 6.0-pH 7.0 range. If too acidic, limestone may be crushed to a powder and added to the soil to neutralize the pH.
Lawn Maintenance
Aeration
Aeration is important to the maintenance of a healthy lawn because it allows for improved gas and nutrient exchange between the air and roots. Over time a lawn may become more compact causing increased difficulty of water reaching the roots. Aerating offers a solution by mechanically punching holes throughout the lawn (removing small soil plugs). This space not only allows for better exchange of nutrients but also helps to reduce soil compaction. As the soil gradually expands to fill the space of the holes the remaining soil is loosened creating less compaction. The removed soil ‘plugs’ are not discarded but rather spread out over the lawn to act as a top dressing. As they break down they return to the soil as valuable nutrients and assists and breaking down thatch, another lawn nuisance.
Dethatching
Thatch is the portion of the lawn above the soil that is made up of both living and dead organic matter. Stems, roots and crowns of grass plants are what comprise thatch. Every lawn is susceptible to thatch and can deal with it in small amounts. It is when thatch becomes too large (over a half inch thick and throughout the yard) that it creates a problem.
When thatch is large enough it will begin to reduce the amount of water and nutrients that reach the root system of the lawn. Thatch also houses a variety of insects and fungal spores that damage the health of the lawn and cause a serious thinning and eventually death of the plants. In terms of thatch, a good offence is the best defense. Annual aeration (or more if required) is a good way to keep thatch levels low.
Aeration is used to either puncture the thatch to promote better drainage or to break it apart to help mix it with soil to increase the rate of natural decomposition. Regular treatments will prevent a build-up of thatch. For lawns that are damaged already, the best solution is to use slice-seeding (punching holes in the thatch to reach the soil beneath) to sink seeds into the soil. The loosened thatch may be raked (hard rake) or removed by vacuum to ensure levels don’t grow too large.
There are specific machines available to reduce thatch in the lawn. A power dethatcher uses blades that are angled to pull up the thatch for easy removal. Generally, spring is considered a good time to dethatch in order to keep levels at a minimum.
Fertilizing
Fertilizing is an important aspect of maintaining a healthy, attractive looking lawn. A proper fertilizer should help promote both leaf and root growth, as well as make your yard look greener. When your lawn is given the tools to grow deep and thicker it can be better protected against harmful insects, unwanted weeds as well as tough weather conditions. Healthy lawns last longer and recover faster from trauma than unfertilized lawns.
Knowing which fertilizer to use, how to apply it, and when it is most needed is where a professional comes in handy.
What is Hydroseeding?
Hydroseeding is a method of seeding a lawn. It allows for quick germination and easy access to large areas. It is a great choice for commercial lawns/fields where the cost of sodding and turf is too great and seeding will take too much time. A licensed professional uses a mixture of seed and mulch is sprayed uniformly across the prepped area. The mulch helps the mixture retain moisture for the new seedlings to grow. The mixture may also contain fertilizer as well as other additives. Hydroseeding, like other lawns, protect against the erosion of soil from wind and rain and help smooth out lumpy areas.
Why Should I Use Hydroseeding?
- Hydroseeding offers great coverage. Hydroseed reaches small or awkward areas that aren’t practical for sod and it doesn’t leave seams or brown patches, just lush green lawn.
- Using hydroseed you will notice your lawn is more resistant to weeds. This type of lawn fairs well after transplants and it proves very resistant to the encroachment of weeds.
- A Hydroseeded lawn will cost about twenty five percent less than a sodded lawn.
- Hydroseeding will show results faster than any other type of lawn system. After hydroseeding you may begin to see your lawn growing within seven days and thicken into a lush lawn in under a month.